Ecuador Carnaval 2010

February 19, 2010

The Bolivar province has the most renowned Carnaval festivities in all of Ecuador leading up to Lent, culminating with the biggest parade of all in the capital city of Guaranda on Sunday.  Each major city within the province has their own specific days during the week to parade, dance, and celebrate Carnaval.  People move from town to town to see all the extravagant parades, floats, and rehearsed dances.  Everyone from kindergarden schools to professional dance groups show off their dance moves as they follow the parade route circling the city.

Working with Kiva field partner Cooperativa San José, I was able to participate in the dances in the parades throughout Carnaval with the MFI.  Being a 6’3″ gringo (white person) in Ecuador and dancing at the front of the group does not exactly help take the target off my back, however, as merciless children all armed with water balloons and carioka (foam spray) first aim at the eyes, then cover you from head to toe.  And once completely drenched in water and foam, someone is guaranteed to come rub it all in with polvo (powder) on your face and hair.

After the parade finally wraps up, the party is just beginning because each day, a dance with live music typically begins following lunch.  The music at these dances typically encompasses all types of genres, ranging from salsa and folk music to Daddy Yankee’s reggaeton, and even Michael Jackson’s “Beat It”.  Drinks are shared among friends, the most popular of which being Pilsener beer and pajaro azul, a famous Ecuadorian hard liquor.

The food during this time of year is also just as traditional as the dancing.  Chancho (pig) in the form of hornado (roasted pork) or fritada (fried pork) and cuy (guinea pig) are ubiquitous throughout the week.  Chiwiles (ground corn filled with cheese wrapped in a corn stalk leaf) and mote (boiled corn) are other accompanying dishes that also are commonly prepared only during the Carnaval season.

While the after effects of an entire week of festivities are a bit rough on the body, I’m already looking forward to hopefully returning to experience it all over again in 2011!

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